Pique, Shirring, Smocking

Pique: Pique, also called macrcella, and related to twill, is a weave that produces cloth with a three-dimensional texture. Pique is often used to make polo shirts, though tradition has it that it was invented for white tie formal wear because pique took starch better than the more planar weaves.

Shirring, Smocking: Shirring and smocking are two similar and related techniques to gather material together in a way that it can stretch. Smocking was used extensively before the invention of elastic.

My class was wearing butter-yellow pique dresses, and momma launched out on mine. She smocked the yoke into tiny puckers, and then shirred the rest of the bodice.